There is nowhere in Morocco like Jemaa el Fna - no place that makes you come back for more. By day, most of the square is just a large open space, in which a handful of snake charmers bewitch their cobras with flutes, doctors (especially in the north-east of the square) show cures and nostrums, and tooth extractors, brandishing fearsome forceps, offer to pull the pain of the head of people with toothache, trays of extracted molars attesting to their skill.It is not until the end of the afternoon that the place really becomes alive.
At dusk, as in France and Spain, people go out for a walk in the evening (especially in Bab Agnaou street), and the place fills up little by little until becoming a carnival of storytellers, acrobats, musicians and entertainers. Go down and you will soon be immersed in the ritual: wandering, squatting among the circles of spectators, giving a dirham or two as your contribution. If you want a respite, you can move on the rooftop terraces, for a view of the square, its storytellers and musicians, and the crowds who come to see them.